How To Teach Heel To A Dog: Perfect Loose Leash

What is the heel command? The heel command is when your dog walks beside you on a loose leash, paying attention to your direction and pace, without pulling. This is a fundamental skill in dog training and a cornerstone of effective obedience training. It’s more than just a polite walk; it’s about building a partnership and ensuring safety for both you and your dog. Teaching your dog to “heel” is a rewarding process that strengthens your bond and makes walks enjoyable. Whether you’re working on basic dog behavior or aiming for advanced dog training, the heel command is essential. This guide will walk you through the steps to achieve a perfect loose leash walk.

How To Teach Heel To A Dog
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Getting Started: What You Need

Before you begin the actual training, gather your supplies. Having the right tools makes the process smoother and more effective.

A Well-Fitting Collar or Harness: For leash training, a flat collar or a front-clip harness is usually best. Avoid choke chains or prong collars, as positive reinforcement methods are generally more effective and humane.
A Leash: A standard 6-foot leash is ideal. Avoid retractable leashes, as they offer less control and can hinder training progress.
High-Value Treats: Small, tasty treats that your dog absolutely loves will be your primary motivator. Think small pieces of cheese, cooked chicken, or commercial training treats.
A Clicker (Optional but Recommended): Clicker training is a fantastic way to communicate precisely with your dog. The click marks the exact moment your dog performs the desired behavior, followed immediately by a treat.
Patience and Consistency: This is the most crucial element. Dog training takes time and repetition.

Building the Foundation: Understanding Your Dog’s Motivation

To teach your dog to heel, we need to tap into what motivates them. For most dogs, this is food, praise, or toys.

Why Dogs Pull on Leash

Before we dive into teaching, let’s consider why dogs pull.

They want to get somewhere faster: Dogs have their own agendas, and often that means exploring ahead of you.
They are excited: New sights, smells, and sounds can be overwhelming and exciting.
They haven’t learned not to: If pulling has always gotten them to their destination, they’ll continue to do it.
Breed tendencies: Some breeds are naturally more inclined to pull, especially working breeds bred for draft work.

The Power of Positive Reinforcement

Positive reinforcement is key to successful dog training. This means rewarding your dog for doing what you want.

What it is: Adding something good (like a treat or praise) immediately after a desired behavior.
Why it works: It makes the dog want to repeat the behavior to get more rewards.
Contrast with punishment: We are not punishing the dog for pulling; we are rewarding them for walking nicely. This approach builds a stronger, more trusting relationship.

Introducing the Clicker

If you’re using a clicker, the first step is “charging” the clicker.

Hold a treat in one hand and the clicker in the other.
Click the clicker.
Immediately give your dog the treat.
Repeat this 10-20 times in a quiet environment.

Your dog will learn that the click sound means a treat is coming. This makes your feedback immediate and clear.

Teaching the “Heel” Position

The goal is for your dog to walk calmly by your side, usually on your left.

Step 1: Rewarding the Side Position

This is the initial phase of getting your dog comfortable in the desired spot.

With your dog on leash, stand still.
Hold a treat in your left hand (or the hand on the side you want your dog to be).
Lure your dog to your left side by moving the treat from their nose towards your leg.
As soon as your dog is in position next to your leg (shoulder level with your hip), click (if using a clicker) and give them the treat.
Repeat this several times. Focus on getting them to stand or sit in that spot.

Step 2: Introducing Movement

Once your dog is comfortable standing in the heel position, start moving.

Hold a treat in your left hand at your side, near your dog’s nose.
Take one step forward with your left foot.
As your dog moves with you, click and treat.
Take another step, click, and treat.
Continue this, rewarding every few steps initially. The goal is to have them stay near your leg as you move.

Step 3: Fading the Lure

We don’t want your dog to rely on the treat being constantly in their face.

Start by holding the treat in your hand, but not moving it towards them.
Give the verbal cue “Heel” (or your chosen cue).
Take a step. If your dog is in the correct position, click and treat from your treat pouch or other hand.
Gradually increase the number of steps between treats.
Start hiding the treat in your hand or treat pouch. Your dog learns to stay near your leg even without a visible lure.

Refining the Walk: The Loose Leash

The “heel” command is about position, but a perfect loose leash walk is about how the leash feels.

The “Stop-Start” Method

This is a highly effective technique for discouraging pulling.

Begin walking. If the leash becomes taut, stop immediately.
Do not move forward again until the leash slackens. This might mean your dog turns back to look at you, or the leash simply relaxes as they move back towards you.
The moment the leash goes slack, resume walking. If using a clicker, you can click the exact moment the leash slackens before you start moving again.
If your dog pulls strongly, you can even turn and walk in the opposite direction until the leash is slack.

Rewarding Loose Leash Walking

It’s crucial to reward your dog for the desired behavior, not just avoid the undesired one.

Occasional Treats: As you walk, whenever the leash is loose and your dog is in the heel position, click and treat.
Praise: Verbally praise your dog with a happy tone: “Good boy!” “Yes!”
Varying Rewards: Don’t always give a treat. Sometimes, a good scratch or an enthusiastic “Good dog!” is enough. This keeps your dog guessing and working for varied rewards.

Increasing Difficulty and Duration

Once your dog can walk a short distance with a loose leash, it’s time to build on this.

Adding Duration

Start by walking for longer periods without stopping. Gradually increase the number of steps between rewards.
Aim for your dog to maintain the heel position for several minutes at a time.

Adding Distractions

Distractions are everywhere! From squirrels to other dogs, your dog needs to learn to stay focused on you.

Start Small: Begin in a quiet area, then move to slightly busier environments.
Practice in the Yard: If you have a yard, practice there first before hitting the street.
Manage the Environment: When introducing distractions, keep them at a distance your dog can handle without reacting intensely.
Reward Heavily: When your dog ignores a distraction and stays in the heel position, offer a jackpot of treats and praise! This is a crucial learning opportunity.

Changing Pace and Direction

A good heel is responsive to your movements.

Vary Your Speed: Walk faster, then slower. Reward your dog for adjusting their pace to stay with you.
Turn Around: Practice making sudden turns. Reward your dog for staying with you.
Zigzag: Incorporate changes in direction.

Introducing the Verbal Cue: “Heel”

You’ve likely been using “heel” or a similar cue already. Now, make sure your dog associates the word with the action.

Say “Heel” just as you begin to move, or when your dog is already in the correct position.
Reward the behavior after the cue.
If your dog is already walking nicely beside you, say “Heel” and then reward them.

Addressing Common Challenges

Even with the best intentions, you might encounter some hurdles.

My Dog Still Pulls

Are your rewards high-value enough? If your dog is pulling, they likely aren’t motivated by the current rewards.
Is the leash too tight for too long? Remember, the moment it slackens, you move. Be vigilant.
Are you stopping consistently? Every single time the leash tightens, you must stop.

My Dog Won’t Stay by My Side

Go back to basics: Spend more time rewarding the static heel position before adding steps.
Is the treat lure too far away? Keep the treat closer to their nose initially.
Are you using a clicker effectively? Ensure the click happens precisely when they are in position.

My Dog Gets Distracted Easily

Manage the environment: As mentioned, start with fewer distractions.
Increase treat value: Use something exceptionally enticing when distractions are present.
Shorten training sessions: End on a positive note before your dog becomes overwhelmed.

My Dog Won’t Walk Without Pulling to Sniff

This is a common issue. Sniffing is natural and important for dogs.

Designated Sniffing Time: Allow your dog structured sniff breaks. You can release them with a cue like “Go sniff!” and allow them to explore. Then, recall them and resume the heel.
Reward for Ignoring Smells: When you pass a particularly interesting scent, reward your dog for staying with you.

Integrating Heel with Other Training

The heel command is a building block for other aspects of dog training.

Recall Training

A strong recall training is vital. If your dog is lagging behind or getting too far ahead, a good recall can bring them back to your side to resume heeling.

House Training and Crate Training

While not directly related to walking, the discipline and consistency required for house training and crate training carry over. They help your dog learn to follow rules and routines, which aids in leash training.

Puppy Training Specifics

For puppy training, it’s essential to keep sessions short and fun. Puppies have short attention spans. Focus on building positive associations with the leash and the heel position. Start with short durations and high rewards. Early socialization is also important, as well-socialized puppies are less likely to be fearful or reactive on walks.

Advanced Dog Training with Heel

Once your dog has mastered the basics, you can advance the heel command.

Heeling with a dropped leash: This involves your dog maintaining the heel position even when the leash is on the ground.
Heeling around obstacles: Practicing weaving through cones or around stationary objects.
Heeling with verbal-only cues: Fading all hand signals and relying solely on verbal commands.
Proofing in challenging environments: This could include busy city streets, crowded parks, or areas with lots of tempting distractions.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Here are some common questions dog owners have about teaching the heel command.

How long does it take to teach a dog to heel?

The time it takes varies greatly depending on the dog’s age, breed, personality, and your consistency. Some dogs pick it up in a few weeks, while for others, it might take several months of dedicated practice. Patience is key.

Can I teach an old dog to heel?

Absolutely! While puppies may learn faster, adult dogs are perfectly capable of learning new skills, including heeling. They might have established habits to unlearn, but with positive reinforcement and consistency, they can become excellent heelers.

What’s the difference between “heel” and “loose leash walking”?

“Heel” is a specific command that asks the dog to be in a particular position next to you. Loose leash walking is the state of the leash being slack as you walk, regardless of whether the “heel” command has been given. Ideally, when you give the “Heel” command, the result is a loose leash walk.

Should my dog be on my left or right for heel?

Traditionally, heel is taught on the left side, as it keeps the dog away from traffic and allows your right hand to be free. However, you can teach it on either side. Consistency is more important than the specific side.

My dog ignores the “heel” command. What should I do?

Ensure you are using high-value rewards and that your dog understands the desired position. Go back to basics, rewarding even small movements towards the correct position. Make sure your dog isn’t overly excited or distracted when you give the cue.

By following these steps and maintaining a positive, consistent approach, you can teach your dog to walk perfectly by your side, transforming your walks into a truly enjoyable experience. Happy training!